How To Read An INCI List… And Spot What's Actually Working For Your Skin

Every product you own has a cheat sheet printed on the back.

Most of us never read it, because Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride looks like a secret code. It’s simpler than it seems. Here’s how to crack an INCI list in about 60 seconds and get a better idea of what’s actually in your skincare, and whether the formula makes sense for your skin.

First, what even is INCI?

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It’s a standard naming system used for cosmetic ingredients, so an ingredient has a consistent name whether you’re looking at a product on a shelf in Dublin or Tokyo.

That’s why water shows up as Aqua and vitamin E as Tocopherol. Plant ingredients often use their botanical names too, such as Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice for aloe vera.

Once you know a few of the common names, that seemingly complicated ingredient list becomes much easier to navigate.

The golden rule: order matters

Ingredients above 1% are listed in descending order of concentration. Ingredients below 1% may be listed in any order after them, so the list cannot reliably reveal exact percentages.

That means the beginning of the list gives you a useful picture of the formula’s main ingredients, but you can’t work out the precise concentration of every ingredient just by looking at its position.

And don’t panic if Aqua leads the way. Water is the base of many creams, serums and toners, so seeing it first is completely normal.

So is it there for a reason, or just for show?

A pretty botanical extract on the front of the box doesn’t automatically tell you how important it is to the formula. But the opposite is also true: an ingredient appearing towards the end of an INCI list isn’t necessarily ineffective.

Some ingredients can be useful at relatively low concentrations, and the performance of a skincare product depends on much more than where one ingredient appears on the list. The overall formula, ingredient combination, concentration, pH, stability and delivery system can all influence how a product performs.

So rather than trying to find one “hero” ingredient and judging everything else around it, look at the formula as a whole.

• Check the declared percentage. If a brand tells you a product contains 10% niacinamide or 2% salicylic acid, you have useful information about the concentration. Look for these details on the product packaging or description.
• Don’t dismiss ingredients low down the list. Some effective ingredients are used at relatively low levels, so their position alone doesn’t tell you whether they are doing a useful job.
• Look at the whole formula. An active ingredient needs the right supporting ingredients and formulation conditions to perform well. A shorter ingredient list isn’t automatically better, and a longer one isn’t automatically worse.
• Consider what your skin actually needs. The most impressive-sounding ingredient is irrelevant if the finished formula doesn’t suit your skin or your routine.

Sort ingredients by their job

Long names look intimidating until you realise most ingredients fall into a few simple groups. Here’s your cheat sheet 

• Hydrators help attract and retain water in the skin. Look for Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate, a form of hyaluronic acid.
• Actives are ingredients included to target particular skin concerns. Think Niacinamide for the appearance of uneven tone and visible pores, Ascorbic Acid for brightening, Salicylic Acid for blemish-prone skin, and Retinol for the appearance of fine lines and uneven texture.
• Barrier-supporting and emollient ingredients help keep skin feeling comfortable and reduce moisture loss. Ceramides, Squalane and Shea Butter are common examples.
• Texture-makers give products their particular consistency and feel. Xanthan Gum and Carbomer, for example, can help create a smooth, gel-like texture.
• Preservatives help protect water-containing formulas from unwanted microbial growth. Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin are examples you may come across.
• Fragrance ingredients can appear as Parfum, while fragrance allergens such as Linalool and Limonene may also be listed separately. These can be relevant if your skin is sensitive or reactive.
  

 

Common worries, answered 

“Long chemical names are scary.”

Not necessarily. An INCI list is simply using standard ingredient names. Tocopherol is vitamin E, while Ascorbic Acid is a form of vitamin C. And “natural” doesn’t automatically mean gentler — botanical extracts and essential oils can also cause irritation for some people.

“A short list must be better.”

Not always. A longer formula can contain ingredients that improve texture, stability, preservation and skin feel alongside the active ingredients. Instead of counting ingredients, look at whether the finished formula is appropriate for your skin and what you want it to achieve.

“Fragrance means avoid.”

Not necessarily. Fragrance is a personal choice, but if your skin is sensitive or reactive, it’s worth checking the INCI for Parfum and listed fragrance allergens such as Linalool and Limonene. Patch testing a new product can also help you assess how your skin responds.

Your 3-step label check

Next time you pick up a product, keep it simple:

1. Identify the base. Look at the first few ingredients to understand what the formula is mainly made from.
2. Check any declared active percentages. If the brand states the concentration of an ingredient, use that information rather than trying to calculate it from the ingredient list.
3. Assess whether the formula suits your skin. Consider your skin type, concerns, sensitivities and the other products you’re already using.

Ready to decode your routine?

Explore our Skincare edit, browse Skincare by Concern, or discover our Ingredients edit to find products suited to your skin’s needs.