What Does Azelaic Acid Do & Who Is It Best For?
What Does Azelaic Acid Do & Who Is It Best For?
The breakout’s gone. The mark didn’t get the memo. If lingering blemish marks, redness and uneven texture are testing your patience, azelaic acid is worth a place on your radar. It’s a multitasker with plenty to offer, but the formula you choose matters. Here’s what it does, who it suits and how to find your match.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally found in grains such as rye, wheat and barley. It’s also produced naturally by a yeast that lives on the skin.
Think of it as a versatile skincare ingredient that can help improve the appearance of blemishes, redness, uneven skin tone and texture. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, alongside a mild exfoliating action, which is why it features in so many routines aimed at clearer, more even-looking skin.
For example The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is formulated with a high concentration of azelaic acid to visibly even skin tone and target uneven skin texture. Its cream-gel texture is designed to sit comfortably within a straightforward morning or evening routine.
What does azelaic acid do for your skin?
It helps calm the appearance of redness
Azelaic acid has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient for routines focused on skin that looks red or easily irritated. Cosmetic azelaic acid products can help improve the appearance of redness and uneven-looking skin.
It helps improve the appearance of blemishes
Azelaic acid has antibacterial and exfoliating properties and is commonly included in products designed for blemish-prone skin. In cosmetic skincare, the focus is on helping skin look clearer and smoother and reducing the appearance of blemishes and post-breakout marks.
It helps improve the appearance of dark marks and uneven tone
One of azelaic acid’s biggest skincare benefits is its ability to support a more even-looking complexion. It can help reduce the appearance of post-breakout marks and uneven pigmentation by influencing processes involved in melanin production.
That makes it a useful ingredient to consider if your main concern is skin that looks uneven or marks that linger after blemishes have cleared.
It gently smooths the look of texture
Azelaic acid has a mild exfoliating action, helping to refine the appearance of uneven texture over time. The result is skin that looks smoother and more even, particularly when the ingredient is used consistently as part of a well-balanced routine.
Who is azelaic acid best for?
Azelaic acid can be a useful addition to a range of skincare routines, particularly if you’re concerned with the appearance of:
- Redness and uneven-looking skin: Azelaic acid can help skin look calmer and more even. Browse the Redness & Rosacea edit for products designed around these concerns.
- Post-breakout marks: If blemishes leave behind marks that linger, azelaic acid can help improve their appearance and support a more even-looking complexion. Explore the Pigmentation edit.
- Blemish-prone skin: Cosmetic azelaic acid products can be useful when your focus is clearer-looking skin and a smoother-looking texture.
- Uneven texture: Its mild exfoliating action can help refine the appearance of rough or bumpy-looking skin.
- Sensitive skin: Azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, but sensitivity varies. The Ordinary recommends patch testing its Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% before full application.
How to use azelaic acid
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
After cleansing and toning, apply a small amount of the cream-gel to the face in the morning and/or evening, avoiding the eyes and mouth. If using it during the day, follow with SPF. The Ordinary positions it in the Treat stage of your routine, after water-based products and before heavier treatments.
There are also specific compatibility restrictions to keep in mind. The Ordinary recommends avoiding its Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% alongside strong acids, retinoids or peptides, as well as several other listed actives. Check The Ordinary’s compatibility guidance before combining it with other treatments rather than assuming every skincare ingredient will layer well together.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Paula’s Choice gives different instructions for its 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. Apply it once or twice daily after cleansing, toning and exfoliating, either on its own or mixed with serum or moisturiser. If used alone, follow with your preferred serum and/or moisturiser. During the day, follow with a moisturiser containing broad-spectrum SPF 30 or greater.
The formula also contains salicylic acid, so take the complete formula into account when planning your routine. It’s particularly suited to oily, blemish-prone or congested skin.
For either product, start according to the individual brand’s directions and introduce new active products gradually. If your skin becomes persistently irritated, stop using the product and seek professional advice.
Shop the azelaic acid edit
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% SHOP HERE
- Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster SHOP HERE
Looking for more?
Browse the Redness & Rosacea edit for products selected around the appearance of redness, or explore the Pigmentation edit for skincare focused on uneven-looking skin tone and dark marks.
Ready to try azelaic acid?
If redness, blemishes, uneven tone or post-breakout marks are on your list of skin concerns, azelaic acid is an ingredient worth knowing. Choose a formula that suits your routine, follow the individual product instructions and introduce active skincare gradually.
